Why We Trend For …Shoes? Because we can!
Fashion and anti-fashion movements are cyclic and re-edited forever and for always. Normcore or coolness, hipsters or Hampton’s boys…so many labels, so many concepts, so many stuff is going on. Information? Infoxication? Capitalism? (Breath!!!)
Shoes have been explored by psychologists has phallic symbols or secret containers. Fashion can never live without shoes. Each great civilization has created its own base models. Egyptians did it, Japaneses did it, middle ages cultures did it…and so on.
Today´s a big industry moving millions of dollars and euros. It symbolizes fashion, protocol, style, trends, art…They have become desire and despair. Men and women and children and teenagers, can also define themselves trough the shoes they wear. It’s a fact!
So…That’s why we do it! We trend! Shoes! Not all the shoes in the world, but the one’s related to our roots, our country, Portugal. Not only related to a luxurious past, related to the 15th and 16th centuries, but projected in the future of quality, innovation and good stories. Everyone likes a good story about Tradition, manufacturing, bravery, fear. We are tired of pink press and their fake people (most of the time), we are tired of bloggers who only want free rides and free tickets for fame an glory.
We don’t need paid likes and fake fans. We need shoes, quality, innovation, functionality, design, the unexpected, the outside of the box, the art and the tradition. For all!
That’s why WTF Shoes, because we want to, and because we can!
How many years can we count from the invisible shoes until the invisible sneakers? The answer: almost 70 years! Yes, your math is correct!
Christian Dior and Salvatore Ferragamo were the genious minds behind this achievement. They were the masters keeping glamour up during the 2nd World War black days! They fought back against the lack of leather, who was used mainly for making boots for the soldiers.
Ferragamo didn´t felt apart! He just reinvented the materials, using cellulose, and candy wraps and imagine…fishing nylon strap!!! Gorgeous! The first ever invisible shoes have born! Thus the cubic artistic wave wasn’t really successful despite all the publicity and innovative perspective of fashion. We were in 1947! Mindset was not prepared for such an avant gard piece!
Beth Levine, Nina and Neiman Marcus first, Charles Jourdan, Patrick Cox before, followed Ferragamo ideas, unsuccessfully…
We need to come back to the XXI Century to find out the invisible sneakers created by Jeremy Scott for Adidas. Those one’s were winners in 2011 fashion scene!
Now in 2014 trends are conducted by the audacious Portuguese footwear industry, producing themselves for the most important brands in the world at first, and emerging their own innovative brands! That is a fact!
Relyquia is one of those daring brands! In a CoxLab with the designer and artist Allister Lee, who already designed for Vans and Nike, they developed a invisible and transparent, urban sneaker, full on details but still raw in the materials used! Bingo! They nailed it again! With their capsule creations, lusty wooden personalized boxes…Can we ask for more?? Oh yeah!
But meanwhile, I can’t get those gorgeous invisible sneakers out of my head! Well done you guys!
Lisbon Fashion Week | Moda Lisboa #42 Vision
Three intense days, a Vision of Fashion! I haven’t missed a thing during Lisbon Fashion Week, from the debut of young designers to the announced come backs. Between first and second row, paying attention to details, tailoring, trends and inevitably …Shoes! Shoes! Shoes! That’s why we are called WTF Shoes, because we really trend for shoes!
Portugal is high; the second place after Italy in the industry, fighting back the European crisis. Portuguese designers are the new age sailors, navigators, embracing cultural genes from the old days. The sea is wide, the waves are strong and responsible for undeniable damages, but the sailors are strong, and the destination is called future, even if the way is not a straight line, but sometimes a painful track of ups and downs.
Sangue Novo is the new crew of Portuguese fashion cadets, who aspire to be the sailors. Not always aware of the dangers of the sea, not always sure of the route, sometimes lost, sometimes determinate! I have missed Co x Labs between young footwear designers and fashion designers. The early beginning is important! Creativity is important! But businesses need sales and sales need vision, like the theme of the 42nd Lisbon Fashion Week. More collaborations with industry, fabrics manufacturers, footwear industry re urgently needed. Do not kill creativity, the challenge is to take creativity to another level, and increase commercial value, either luxury market or urban concepts lower targets. The world public is huge, you just need to spot your audience, doing good! Just do it the Portuguese way!
The two high moments happened during Nuno Gama and Filipe Faísca shows. I selected both designers for different reasons, with positive and negative aspects. Nuno Gama gave life to an open hair performance with horses, a riding band from the National Guard, a live band playing Portuguese famous marches and perfect tailoring and Portuguese symbols, from eternal figures like Amalia Rodrigues. Inside, the colors of Portuguese national flag, shown at the end of the show, when the models were using the garments turned inside out. Some woman dresses, black, like a parade of black widows or Severas, a traditional figure of fado. So exciting!
Late to come was Filipe Faísca show, dynamic, vibrant, revival, bringing to the catwalk not only 80’s and 90’s top models like Sofia Aparicio
but also powerful young women from the new generation. Runway was on fire! The collection was superb, fresh, passionate…what a great come back from Filipe. But, I must say I was somehow disappointed with him …because the shoes were an unhappy choice! Models felt four times! The responsible were the non Portuguese shoes!!! In a country that is recognized for making luxury, quality, handmade, desirable shoes, the sexiest industry in Europe, he chose not to use the national production and he was wrong! Sorry Filipe, I hope you can change your mindset next time!
From the other shows I highlight Luis Carvalho evolution and the great collaboration with the footwear designer Joana Marques, the talent behind Joana D’a Graça Shoes; Pedro Pedro and Alexandra Moura consistent works, both maintaining collaborations with Basilius Shoes and Goldmud, and truthfully winners. Both Miguel Vieira and Nuno Baltazar, who always fill my eyes, didn’t surprise me so much as I expected. They have played for safe, using the winner cards. Nuno Baltazar repeated the same jumpsuits from last collections…despite of some good coordinates…the shoes were disappointing and I believe he can improve next time. I always expect quality and refined taste from him. Miguel presented a conservator collection, after 25 years designing clothes and shoes. I haven’t felt passion for any special garment and the shoes were very usual and already seen, and for sure the next is going to be awesome.
In the end, the vision was shown to the world and I will let you know more details separately in the next days. With ups and downs, curves, the Portuguese odyssey is still starting, and much more it yet to come, every day, every week, every time. I see you soon!
WTF Shoes Editor-in-chief